If Leith is Edinburgh's eating district, Stockbridge is its browsing one. This is the villagey neighbourhood just northwest of the New Town, about 15 minutes' walk downhill from Princes Street, and it has a completely different rhythm to the rest of the city centre: Georgian and Victorian terraces, a Sunday farmers' market, a run of independent shops and some of Edinburgh's best charity and vintage stores, and a string of cafes and brunch spots that locals actually queue for. There's no single unmissable sight here: the Royal Botanic Garden sits on its northern edge, but the neighbourhood itself is the destination.
Stockbridge kept its own identity even after Edinburgh's New Town swallowed it in the 19th century, and it still feels like a village within the city: independent shopfronts rather than chains, a slower pace than the Royal Mile, and the Water of Leith running quietly through the middle of it on its way from Dean Village to Leith. Down by the river sits the Colonies, a set of distinctive 1860s terraced streets built as co-operative housing for working people, one of the neighbourhood's best-kept secrets, hiding in plain sight a few minutes from the shops.
The honest shape of a Stockbridge day is unhurried: browse St Stephen Street, eat well, then walk it off along the river toward the Botanics. If your visit falls on a Sunday, build it around the market. Otherwise, brunch does the same job of anchoring the day. It's a half-day neighbourhood at minimum, a full day if you add the Botanic Garden and come back for dinner. Here are the twenty spots I'd build it around, roughly in the order I'd visit them.