Edinburgh's wine scene rarely makes anyone's things to do in Edinburgh list, but it should. This is my pick of nine genuine wine bars and enotecas, the ones where the bottle list is the whole point, not a cocktail bar with a decent Chardonnay bolted on. If you want the drinks-led side of a night out instead, see the best cocktail bars and the best whisky bars; this list stays strictly wine.
For a no-fuss glass and a cheese board, go to Pickles on Broughton Street: walk-in only, nearly 900 Google reviews and a 4.8 average. For natural and low-intervention wine, Zero Zero Wines in the Southside is the specialist, small and candlelit enough that a Google reviewer called it 'such a nice date spot.' For history, Whighams Wine Cellars in the West End has been pouring from its Georgian cellar since 1983. And if you want the full Italian enoteca experience, Divino's forty-wine Enomatic wall in the Old Town is the most reviewed wine room in the city.
A few practical notes before you go. Book ahead for Divino, Le Di-Vin, Whighams, Sotto and Smith & Gertrude; Pickles and Zero Zero are more walk-in friendly, though Zero Zero's tables fill fast at weekends. Most of these bars don't publish glass or bottle prices online (only Pickles and Whighams do), so treat the figures below as the best available and expect the odd chalkboard surprise. And keep in mind that two of the best 'wine bars' here, Divino and Sotto, are really excellent Italian restaurants with a serious wine-cellar identity, not drinks-only rooms.