Edinburgh is one of the few cities where you can tour a working whisky distillery, sit through a big-budget brand experience and taste single casks in an underground vault, all in a day on foot. This is my pick of the eight best places to actually tour and taste whisky in and around the city, ranked, with exact ticket prices, how long each takes, what you'll taste and who each one suits. If you only do one and you want a real working distillery, make it Holyrood on the Southside; if you want a show, it's Johnnie Walker on Princes Street.
It helps to know what you're booking. Three of these are working distilleries where you'll see the stills and smell the wash: Holyrood in the Old Town, the striking vertical Port of Leith in the docks, and Glenkinchie, the classic Lowland malt fifteen miles out. Two are polished brand attractions with no working still on site, the Johnnie Walker Experience and the Scotch Whisky Experience, both excellent at turning beginners into people who know their Speyside from their Islay. And three are for tasting and buying: the Lost Close's underground tastings, the members-only Scotch Malt Whisky Society, and Cadenhead's, Scotland's oldest independent bottler.
Two practical notes. Prices run from about £21 for Glenkinchie's standard tour to £95 for the Scotch Whisky Experience's tour-and-lunch, with premium cask tastings climbing past £150; I've named the exact tier for each below. And book ahead: Holyrood releases tour dates only three to six weeks out, and the Princes Street and Castlehill venues sell out in summer and during the Fringe. Almost every tasting is over-18s only, though a few tours welcome accompanied children with a soft drink.