If you only make one trip for fish and chips in Edinburgh, make it the Fishmarket at Newhaven, a harbour-side chippy on the pier frying haddock landed a few miles up the coast. But the honest answer is that the best supper depends on where you are and how you want to eat it, and a great one can be had at a neighbourhood takeaway for a third of a sit-down restaurant's bill. This is my ranked pick of the nine best, with the exact price of a supper, whether you sit in or take away, and one honest catch at each.
Two things to know before you order. First, in Edinburgh you eat haddock, not cod: cod is the English default, but a Scottish 'fish supper' means fresh haddock unless you say otherwise. Second, when the person behind the counter asks 'salt 'n' sauce?', say yes. Salt 'n' sauce is the city's own seasoning, a thin, tangy brown chip-shop sauce that goes on your chips instead of vinegar, and it's the single most Edinburgh thing about eating here. Get it on the chips, not the fish, so the batter stays crisp.
The scene splits by neighbourhood and by format. For the best all-round supper and a seaside setting, go to Newhaven. For a proper sit-down chippy in the centre, Landy's on North Bridge and Bertie's on Victoria Street are the two. For a neighbourhood takeaway that locals actually queue at, the Chippy by Spencer in Broughton, Pierinos in Leith and the Gorgie Fish Bar out west are the picks. And for after the pub, Cafe Piccante keeps frying into the early hours. Prices run from about £7.50 at a takeaway hatch to roughly £16 sitting down, so I've named the cost of a supper at every one.