Edinburgh became the world's first UNESCO City of Literature in 2004, and honestly, you can feel it the moment you start walking around. This is a city where there are more independent bookshops per capita than almost anywhere in the UK, where the annual Book Festival fills Charlotte Square every August, and where you can trace the footsteps of Robert Louis Stevenson, Arthur Conan Doyle, and Muriel Spark just by wandering through the right neighbourhoods. The literary history runs deep here, from the Scott Monument on Princes Street (the largest monument to a writer anywhere in the world) to the Writers' Museum tucked away in Lady Stair's Close.
What makes Edinburgh's bookshop scene special isn't just the volume. It's the variety. You've got pristine three-storey palaces of new fiction next door to second-hand warrens where the floorboards creak and the books are stacked to the ceiling. You've got radical political bookshops and specialist sci-fi dealers and the UK's first dedicated romance bookshop, all within a couple of miles of each other. The city also has a habit of putting bookshops in interesting buildings: 1820s tenement basements, converted fishing tackle shops, historic William Playfair architecture.
If you're visiting Edinburgh and you read books, you need at least half a day for this. Some of these shops are clustered close enough to combine into a walking route, and I've suggested one at the end. But take your time. The best bookshop visits are the ones where you lose track of it entirely.