Edinburgh takes afternoon tea seriously, and it has the rooms for it: former banking halls with domed ceilings, a Georgian library dripping in gold leaf, a five-star hotel with a harpist, even a converted lighthouse ship down in Leith. It is one of the loveliest ways to spend a rainy afternoon in this city, and there are plenty of those.
This is my pick of the eleven best, sorted roughly from the grandest hotel occasions down to the tearooms that cost a fraction as much. At the top end you are paying roughly £65-92 a head for the setting and the service as much as the sandwiches; the boutique and gallery spots bring it down to £30-45; and if you only want a warm scone with jam and cream, I have added a few of those at the bottom too.
Two honest tips before you go. First, book, especially for the hotels and the Signet Library, which sell out days ahead at weekends. Second, pace yourself: a proper Edinburgh afternoon tea is a meal, so make it lunch, skip breakfast, and walk it off afterwards up Calton Hill or along Princes Street Gardens.