Edinburgh rewards slow exploration. This itinerary covers 26 places across five days, from the obvious (Edinburgh Castle, Arthur's Seat) to the spots you'd only find through locals (Pakora Bar's haggis pakoras, bottomless wings at Wings on Sundays). Each day is built around a different part of the city so you're not backtracking.
Expect to walk 6-10 km per day. The city is compact but hilly. Bring shoes with grip, especially for Old Town cobblestones and the Arthur's Seat climb. Days 1-4 focus on the city centre; Day 5 takes you further out to the zoo, modern art galleries, and Portobello Beach.