Shibuya is the neighbourhood most first-time visitors picture when they think of Tokyo. The crossing, the neon, the sheer volume of people moving in every direction. But Shibuya ward is significantly bigger than that one intersection, and spending all your time around the station means you're missing some of the best parts of the city. This is a neighbourhood that contains multitudes: the teenage fashion chaos of Takeshita Street, the tree-lined elegance of Omotesando, a 170-acre forest with a Shinto shrine at its centre, some of the best cocktail bars in Asia, and a rooftop where you can watch 3,000 people cross the street at once while drinking a beer you bought at a convenience store.
The area covered here stretches from Ebisu in the south to Yoyogi Park in the north, and from the Shibuya station scramble west into the nightlife warrens of Dogenzaka and Maruyama-cho. It's all walkable, though your legs will have opinions about that by the end of the day. Think of Shibuya ward as four or five mini-neighbourhoods stitched together, each with a completely different personality.
Here is how to spend your time in every corner of it.