There is a particular kind of restaurant in Tokyo where a single person stands behind a narrow charcoal grill, threading chicken onto bamboo skewers with the focus of a surgeon, and turning out food so good that people queue for an hour to sit on a stool for forty minutes. That is yakitori. And Tokyo does it better than anywhere else on earth.
Yakitori literally means "grilled bird," and in its simplest form it's chicken parts threaded onto skewers and cooked over binchotan, a dense white charcoal that burns incredibly hot with almost no smoke. The best yakitori chefs can work a grill of thirty skewers at once, each cut requiring different timing, different heat, different attention. A chicken heart needs seconds. A thigh wrapped around leek needs a full minute of careful rotation. Skin needs to be cooked slowly until every last bit of fat renders out and the surface shatters like glass.
The two main ways to eat yakitori in Tokyo are omakase and a la carte. At high-end counters, you sit down and the chef serves a progression of skewers, usually starting with lighter cuts (breast, sasami) and building toward richer ones (liver, heart, tail), finishing with a rice dish or chicken soup. This is the yakitori equivalent of a sushi omakase, and the best versions cost ¥10,000-15,000, which is still a fraction of what a comparable sushi experience runs. At more casual places, you just point at a menu and order whichever cuts sound good. Both approaches have their merits. Omakase forces you to try things you'd never pick yourself. A la carte lets you order six tsukune in a row because you can.
The cuts worth knowing: negima is thigh meat alternating with leek, the canonical yakitori order. Tsukune is a chicken meatball, often served with a raw egg yolk for dipping. Kawa is skin, and when it's done right it should shatter. Hatsu is heart, surprisingly tender and mineral. Sunagimo is gizzard, chewy in a good way. Bonjiri is the tail, rich with fat. Chochin is the holy grail for adventurous eaters: an unlaid egg still attached to the ovary, grilled until the yolk is just set. Not every restaurant serves it, but the ones that do are worth seeking out.