Tokyo has over 4,000 temples and shrines. That number sounds absurd until you start noticing them: wedged between convenience stores, hiding behind office towers, occupying entire city blocks that somehow went unnoticed on your first three walks past. The city's spiritual landscape is so dense that you could spend a month here and still round a corner to find a 500-year-old stone torii you never knew existed.
Before you start exploring, a quick primer. Temples are Buddhist. You'll recognise them by the suffix "ji" or "tera" in their names, incense burners in the courtyard, and a Buddha statue inside the main hall. Shrines are Shinto. They use "jinja," "jingu," or "taisha" and are marked by torii gates, those distinctive orange or stone archways that signal you're entering sacred ground. Japan spent centuries blending the two traditions, so you'll often find a small shrine tucked into a temple's grounds or vice versa. Don't stress too much about the distinction while visiting. Just enjoy both.
The etiquette is straightforward and worth knowing. At a shrine, bow slightly before walking through the torii gate. At the temizuya (the water basin near the entrance), rinse your left hand, then your right, then pour a little water into your cupped left hand to rinse your mouth. Don't drink from the ladle directly. At the offering box, toss in a five-yen coin (the word for five yen, "go-en," is a homophone for "good fortune"), bow twice, clap twice, make your wish silently, and bow once more. At temples, the ritual is simpler: toss your coin and bow with your hands pressed together. No clapping.
And then there are omikuji, the paper fortune slips you'll find at nearly every temple and shrine. Draw one from the box, read your fortune (many now come in English), and if you got a bad one, tie it to the designated rack so the spirits can deal with it instead of you. Good fortune? Keep it in your wallet.
These 11 sites cover the essential range: ancient Buddhist temples, major Shinto shrines, a cat-covered hidden gem, and a samurai burial ground that will give you chills.