Tokyo's nightlife starts with a choice that most cities never force you to make. At midnight, you're standing on a train platform, and the display board says "Last Train" in blinking letters. You can get on it and go home. Or you can turn around, walk back into the neon, and commit to the full ride until 5 AM when the first trains start running again. Most people, at least once during their trip, choose the second option. And that's when things get genuinely interesting.
The city doesn't have a single nightlife district the way London has Soho or New York has the Lower East Side. Instead, it has about six of them, each with a completely different energy. Shinjuku alone contains multitudes: Golden Gai's labyrinth of tiny themed bars, Kabukicho's towering nightclubs, Omoide Yokocho's smoky yakitori stalls that stay open past midnight. Shibuya's Maruyama-cho neighbourhood hides speakeasies and DJ bars in basements that you'd walk past a dozen times without noticing. Ebisu and Nakameguro are quieter, with vinyl bars and natural wine spots that draw the kind of crowd that treats Tuesday like Friday.
The drinking age in Japan is 20, not 18, and clubs check passports at the door. Tipping doesn't exist. And the single most important piece of practical advice is this: carry cash. The speakeasy with the world-class cocktails might not take your Visa.
Golden Gai: Two Hundred Bars in Six Alleys
Golden Gai is, depending on who you ask, either the greatest bar district on earth or a tourist trap. The truth is somewhere in between, and it depends entirely on which door you push open. There are over 200 bars packed into six narrow alleys just east of Shinjuku Station, each one seating maybe four to eight people. Some have themes: rock music, jazz, cinema, horror. Others are just a person behind a counter who's been pouring drinks for thirty years and has opinions about everything.
The trick is ignoring the bars with English menus posted outside and instead looking for the ones with a "Tourist Welcome" sign in the window but no further explanation. Those tend to be the places where you'll end up in a two-hour conversation with a retired salaryman and a bartender who insists you try the house specialty.