The word izakaya translates loosely to "stay-drink-place," which tells you everything about the priorities. These are Tokyo's after-work living rooms, the places where salary workers loosen their ties at 6 PM, order a draft beer before looking at the menu, and gradually build a table full of small plates that somehow turns into a three-hour evening. They range from six-stool counters wedged under railway tracks to multi-floor restaurants that look like film sets. The common thread is that drinking and eating happen together, in no particular hurry, and the bill at the end is almost always cheaper than you expected.
For visitors, izakaya are the single best way to eat and drink in Tokyo without a reservation list or a dress code. They're also the place where you'll run into the most unfamiliar customs. You'll be handed food you didn't order (that's otoshi, and yes, you're paying for it). Someone will shout "Toriaezu nama!" and a draft beer will appear. The menu might be entirely in Japanese. None of this is a problem once you know what to expect.
This guide covers 12 izakaya experiences across Tokyo, from the smoky alleyways of Shinjuku to the polished counters of Ginza, plus everything you need to know about ordering, tipping (don't), and not accidentally spending ¥10,000 on a cover charge.