Most of Tokyo feels like it was built yesterday. Gleaming towers, robot restaurants, convenience stores that could pass for Michelin-starred delis. Asakusa is the exception. This is the part of the city where incense smoke still drifts across temple courtyards before dawn, where shopkeepers hand-paint wooden signs, and where the best way to spend an evening is sitting on a plastic stool in a narrow alley drinking something called hoppy out of a frosted glass.
Asakusa was one of Tokyo's great entertainment districts during the Edo period, a place of theatres, geisha houses, and sprawling temple markets. Much of it burned during the war, but the neighbourhood rebuilt itself in the old style rather than the new. The result is a pocket of Tokyo that looks and feels nothing like Shibuya or Shinjuku, and that's exactly why you should spend a full day here.
This guide covers everything worth doing, from the temple complex and its surrounding streets to the riverside walk to Tokyo Skytree, the kitchen supply street where you can buy the world's best knives, and the outdoor drinking alleys where a round of drinks costs less than a single cocktail in Roppongi. If you're working through our 5-day Tokyo itinerary, Asakusa fills a full day on its own. If you need food recommendations beyond this neighbourhood, check our best restaurants in Tokyo guide.